High on a hill overlooking two mountain ranges and infinite acres of farmland, Klocke Estate – a soil-to-glass “destination distillery” in Claverack devoted to creating brandy that echoes “the timeless spirit of the Hudson Valley” – is finally opening its doors after more than seven years of development.
Earlier this week, a ribbon cutting ceremony marked the launch of Klocke’s highly-anticipated restaurant, which will serve an à la carte seasonal menu alongside a bevy of libations.
“Our philosophy is time,” says John Frishkopf, founder and CEO of the estate, alluding to the lengthy process required to age Klocke’s prime commodity – as well as, winkingly, to the process of the estate’s very manifestation.
“I definitely think we’ve learned a thing or two about patience,” he laughs.
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Frishkopf grew up in Boston, and was trained in distilleries in England and Germany while simultaneously pursuing a career in finance. He’d dreamed of opening a vineyard in the Northeast, but it was only upon learning of New York’s unique, distiller-friendly climate that his focus shifted to the Upstate region.
“From the moment that we first came up to look at this property, we knew, ‘This is the spot,’” Frishkopf remembers.
At the ribbon cutting this week, representatives from the Columbia County Chamber of Commerce and the Office of Senator Michelle Hinchey were on hand to deliver words of congratulations. Frishkopf described feeling “overwhelmed by support” from the county, as well as from his neighbors in the Claverack area.
That support was evident in light conversation with the other guests. “I’m so glad that this is what came here,” remarked one attendee, indicating the spacious, glamorous cocktail bar in which we were standing. “This land could’ve been used for anything.”
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For those in attendance, the ceremony was bookended by a reception in the newly-completed restaurant, which features tall windows that look out onto a fraction of Klocke’s one-hundred-and-sixty acres of farmland, as well as the distant Catskill Mountains. The dining room boasts a high ceiling and elegant furniture, with an outdoor patio to boot.
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And through a glass door, one can glimpse the distillery itself – which resembles a candy factory out of the imagination of Roald Dahl, what with its massive, mahogany-and-gold-colored Alembic Charentais still, imported directly from Cognac.
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“I hope you all agree the ends justify the time it’s taken,” Frishkopf quipped to his guests. Indeed, if one isn’t swayed by Klocke Estate’s very grandeur, their liquor will do the trick: the restaurant provides an exquisite selection of cocktails that leave you feeling quite majestic, gazing out at a sunset that could’ve been plucked from a Frederic Church painting.
(I highly recommend the white vermouth spritz: effervescent, bright, and confected with spirits from Klocke’s own vineyards.)
The restaurant at Klocke Estate is open Wednesdays and Thursdays from 5pm to 9pm, and Friday through Sunday from noon to 9pm. Learn more and make a reservation by visiting their website here.
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Ben Rendich is a filmmaker and writer. He’s in pre-production on his first feature, Sweet Confusion, and has a blog where he writes movie reviews and essays called Reflections on a Silver Screen. He lives in Catskill.
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