I’ll start with an admission: I loved Dyad. After nine years, including the heavy ones of the pandemic, Dyad Wine Bar closed its doors in February of this year. Alex and his team will forever have my gratitude for creating a space we in Kinderhook could feel at home in.
Where once was Dyad now is Isola (Italian for “island”); also a wine bar, but of a very different ilk. If Dyad had the best french fries in the county, Isola has the best chickpea pie. Where I drank my fair share of Manhattans at Dyad, I foresee myself drinking a good amount of Côtes du Rhône. Where the leather chairs of Dyad felt cozy, the cafe seating of Isola feels peppy.
The first question someone will ask you upon hearing that you’ve been to Isola Wine and Tapas is “What’s the interior like?” While it’s impressive, their Instagram doesn’t do the space justice.
Located at 16 Hudson St, when you walk into the historic building you feel like you have been transported away to a small European destination spot. Designed by Anthony D’Argenzio, the small cafe tables and decorative plates on the wall are offset by a large marble bar and beautiful hand-hewn wood beams, providing a mix of tones and cultural flavors, not unlike the menu at Isola itself. The moment you step inside, you’re welcomed by a warm and inviting ambiance.
My friend Jeff, who notices these things, came back from the bathroom in the first few minutes and simply said, “Hand towels in the bathroom. Very classy.” There are a thousand similarly thoughtful details that go into each aspect of Isola.
Would Hillary Zio, the proprietor of Isola, describe it as classy? “Romantic,” is the word she used when prompted. “I want people to feel like, if they just got back from a vacation in Europe, this is the spot that immediately takes them back.”
Hillary herself seems made for the role of owner/hostess/wine director of such an establishment. She comes to Isola having already spent twenty years in hospitality, holds an advanced certificate in wines and spirits from The Wine & Spirit Education Trust and brings an incredible knowledge but, better yet, a love for wine to everything she has sourced.
Does Hillary know a lot about wine? Sure. But does she enjoy the hell out of wine? Absolutely. Her enthusiasm for every wine on the menu is infectious and will get even the snobbiest of drinkers excited about a Baga (don’t know what a Baga is? Now’s your chance!).
I tried the Neillucciu, Baga and Côtes du Rhône and all were quite excellent. Hillary works entirely with small producers and brings in predominantly organic and biodynamic wines so, not surprisingly, you wake up feeling energized instead of hungover. While her menu focuses on wines from the islands and coastal regions of Western Europe, I personally hope she may work the occasional local wine onto the menu in the future.
Isola’s tapas menu by Chef Fernando Castro (formerly of The Maker) is thoughtfully curated, and it truly shines with its fresh, high-quality ingredients. Of note was the brussels sprouts and pomegranates over coconut yogurt with chile which were cooked to perfection. However, a fan favorite amongst the patrons (several of whom came twice in the two days Isola had been open) is the chickpea pie with cauliflower, pine nuts and gremolata. “Is this feta?” Jeff asked. Nope! Cauliflower and it’s really good.
Isola Wine and Tapas is a delightful addition to Kinderhook’s dining scene, offering a memorable culinary experience that celebrates Mediterranean flavors with a Hudson Valley twist. Whether you’re a local or just passing through, this charming establishment is well worth a visit for its delicious food, fantastic wine, and welcoming atmosphere.
Isola Wine and Tapas is open Wednesday – Saturday 4pm – 9pm – 16 Hudson Street, Kinderhook.
Trixie is fond of ending many a review with, “Tell ‘em Trixie sent you!” You can tell them Lodro sent you, but I’ll probably already be at the bar greeting you when you come in.
– Lodro Rinzler is the author of a handful of books on meditation including “The Buddha Walks into a Bar” and “Take Back Your Mind.” He lives in Kinderhook with his wife and one year-old daughter.